![]() So if you get the bug to overhaul this motor it's gonna cost more than normal even if you do the work. The last of the bad news is the gaskets, rings and bearings are going to run around $650.00 and doesn't seem to matter if you get them from the dealer or aftermarket (which there are not many sources).Īll in all, it has turned out to be a fairly durable motor considering I have redlined it too many times to count and pulled a few thousand pounds on a trailer from Omaha, NE to Tulsa and back more than once. The heads did not have to be machined and measured only. I did find a leakage trace into the water jacket from the 6 & 8 cylinders and that is what I believe was the cause of my anti-freeze always blowing out. 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 - Radiator. More than likely the valve seals were not the source of the smoke and may not have needed replaced. Shop for the best Radiator for your 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, and you can place your order online and pick up for free at your local OReilly Auto Parts. Cost $31.00 for the seals and $125.00 to have the heads cleaned and the seal installed. I had the heads cleaned and new valve guide seals put in. (which is being a real pain to clean out). The cause was carbon buildup in the piston ring groves. Dorman's Engine Coolant Recovery Tank uses premium plastic to withstand the. Heat and engine vibration can damage plastic overtime causing cracks and leaks. The rings were stuck on all but two cylinders and those were partially stuck. 68.95 Dorman Engine Coolant Recovery Tank 0 69861775 Dodge Ram 2004, Engine Coolant Recovery Tank by Dorman. ![]() None of the valves or seats show any signs of damage. The heads were a little carboned up but only lightly near the valves. The front and rear oil seals were not leaking and there are no wear marks on the crankshaft seal locations. The crankshaft mic'd in at factory specs. The crankshaft main bearings along with the rod bearings did not have any marks and you have to look really close to see any wear. No ring groove at the top of the cylinders. In fact the cross hatch marks are still in the cylinders. The worst cylinder was only 4/10 of 1000th out of taper and the rest were less that, 2/10 or zero. Good news is the cylinders had virtually no wear. Thank you kind sirs.let me know if anything above strikes you as odd and may have a wild thought as to what may be the issue at hand.Ģ012 Challenger SXT+ 220ci 5 speed, blackberry pearl, FM xxMM, diablo in-tune I1000, Carbon fiber pedal covers, 11% tintġ999 Durango SLT+ leather, 360ci 4x4, hughes plenum rebuild, superchips 3865, tow pkg, 3.55 LSD, rear tail light guard, K&N CAI, FM 50MM TB, crystal clear headlights, Torsion/shackle lift, Rancho RSX's, Pacesetter headers, dual trans & oil temp a-pillar pod, chrome deep trans pan, drilled & slotted rotors, 10 disc cd changer.Ģ0 SLT 2WD QC LB 345ci, FM 84MM TB, slotted brake rotors, step bar, diamond plate pedals, locking gas door, tow package w/ 3.55 lsd, Hellwig LP-15, shell and carpet kit, 18% door window tint, Magnaflow 12641, Slammed1's 3" spindle lift and 2.Joe, Sorry for not getting back sooner. Fan clutch seems good and fan kicking on when it needs to with no apparent wobbles. Just looking for suggestions from the Hemi Gods.I'll start with the cap and stat, if that doesn't work, I'll switch out the upper and lower hoses, moving on to the radiator and finally the water pump in the event step by step doesn't resolve this. In other words, if the thermostat failed, it failed in the open position.any chance a stat failing open would cause the coolant boiling point to lower and cause the issue I'm having? While idling, both upper and lower radiator hoses are hot to the touch and firm so the pressure is there. After browsing other "overheating" threads, I didn't see anyone having the same issue with the coolant reservoir boiling over like I have. That being said, at lunch and just picked up a new radiator cap and thermostat to swap out tonight and see if that alleviates the issue. Soooooo, any thoughts on diagnosis? No engine lights and the good thing is that I only have a 4 mile commute so from a cold engine, in my 4 miles, I the needle didn't get above half so I'm not in a spot where I may be causing any damage. ![]() Added some of the HOAT to recommended levels and went to bed. Waited a few hours and went to look at the coolant levels and everything was up to snuff under the radiator cap, however, the reservoir was now low. (123k miles) Pulled into the garage and noticed the coolant was boiling over in the reservoir tank. This thread will be a bit premature, however, yesterday the D overheated for the first time. ![]()
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